The best of British hospitality under warm African skies in Mossel Bay

You don’t have to be a full-on British royalist to enjoy Betty’s Boutique Hotel in Mossel Bay, Western Cape, writes Brian Berkman. There’s a mix of good hospitality and service on offer at this establishment.

The best of British hospitality under warm African skies in Mossel Bay
The sunlit garden at Betty‘s Boutique Hotel also has a tree house and slide for children.
Photo: Brian Berkman
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For a thoroughly British time, book Betty’s Boutique Hotel in Mossel Bay. Located in one of the early limestone houses on the hill overlooking the ocean, you’ll be guaranteed splendid service and a jolly comfortable stay.

Betty’s is owned by the Clayphan family from Yorkshire, England. They moved to Johannesburg in 2003 and bought a holiday home in Mossel Bay two years later. Betty’s Boutique Hotel, as it is now known, was purchased in 2017.

A royalist’s dream come true

A stay here is a royalist’s dream come true, thanks to an impressive collection of royal memorabilia. While much of the royal focus is on commemorative plates and bowls, there are many other treasures, too, such as framed photos of Queen Elizabeth II, framed letters from Buckingham Palace, and countless others.

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The extensive porcelain collection includes charming figurines like hat-wearing mice and teapots shaped like houses.

Named in honour of David Clayphan’s mother, Betty, who adored baking and fine china teacups, Betty’s Boutique Hotel is now run by the second generation of Clayphans, with son-in-law Lewis and daughter Daisy at the helm.

Daisy grew up in South Africa from the age of six and attended school here before finishing her education in Dubai, where the family relocated for five years. She later studied culinary arts in Derbyshire, England, and, according to the hotel’s website, dreamt of having her own establishment to fulfil her ambitions – which she now does at Betty’s.

There is only one slight drawback about staying at Betty’s: it isn’t easy to access the coast on foot. Mossel Bay’s famous Die Poort, which provides some of the best sea swimming within a secure natural swimming channel that fills and empties with the tide, is about 1km away.

But with competitive rates compared to seafront properties and delightful staff, a short drive isn’t too much of a bother.

First-class hospitality, old chap

With an overnight planned in Mossel Bay en route to Cape Town after visiting Wilderness, this writer booked one of the least costly rooms, called Off the Wall.

The first positive experience of owner-run hospitality came when ask

A slipper bath in the Off the Wall room at the hotel.

ing for a noon rather than 2pm check-in. Lewis promptly replied that we were most welcome to enjoy the facilities from any time and could access the room as soon as it was ready. Tickety-boo!

 

Off the Wall is a newly built courtyard room incorporating part of the original 1903 stone wall. This room, themed for the Roaring Twenties with feather boas and posters of movie stars, is perfectly comfortable, featuring a large bathroom with shower and slipper bath.

However, while listed as having a queen-sized bed, it was a tad cramped for more generously proportioned guests.

We asked the lovely duty manager if we might have another room with a larger bed and were graciously offered the choice of both grand suites: The Royal Suite (which we very gratefully accepted) and the equally lovely The Rose Suite. We weren’t asked to chip in for the better-class room – rather spiffing of them!

More is decidedly more, old bean

Betty’s eschews ‘less is more’ in favour of ‘more is more’ and features many romantic and whimsical touches, such as towels folded into kissing swans and decorative cushions and accents.

While my preference is uncluttered and minimalist decoration, the abundance offered at Betty’s is presented with such good humour, it’s impossible to be even slightly curmudgeonly about it.

There are some very impressive English antique pieces and an exquisite porcelain and timber rocking horse in the sitting room, possibly even with real horsehair.

Taking tea like the queen

A highlight is a very deep and covered front veranda, part of which is sheltered by windows on one side. A stellar breakfast (why isn’t fried bread always served with breakfast?) is served on the front veranda and, by prior arrangement, high tea, cheese and charcuterie platters are available.

Betty’s runs an honesty bar and invites you to enjoy two different bar spaces.
The formal one is in the sitting room with TV and bar directly opposite reception. In this room is a snooker table that came from the family’s home in England and a generous collection of games.

The Royal Suite has two opening sash windows onto the veranda, with a sea view beyond.

The other bar, a classic hidden speakeasy, is in the basement. This offers yet another treasure trove of interesting things in which to while away the hours, featuring a tropical fish tank and cosy nooks and tables with low-lit lamps.

This bar is accessed via a staircase next to the front of the house, which, when closed, is entirely hidden from view – rather hush-hush!

Garden delights and swimming

There is an ornamental garden at the front of the house, with a swimming pool and loungers to the side. There’s also a children’s slide and tree house.

Betty’s Boutique Hotel is the perfect place for a weekend party, providing one takes all six rooms of the accommodation available.

A slight drawback of staying in the two front-facing rooms is that their windows open to the veranda, and people chatting there can be heard in the room.

Lessons in british hospitality

There are a few lessons to be learnt from the proprietors. First off is how accurate and detailed their website is. With photographs and detailed descriptions, guests know exactly what they’re getting.

Second is the way Betty’s weaves its personal and family history into the property and the guest experience.

Third is how well all the staff are trained in the true art of hospitality, making guests feel welcome.

Betty’s gets all the basics right, which include free Wi-Fi, air conditioning, sufficient power points, and quality rooibos bathroom amenities.

For more information email [email protected],or visit bettysboutiquehotel.com.