David Basckin

All the excitement about national symbols has failed to provide South Africa with a national fish. Let me fill the gap by nominating hake. It is a wonderfully versatile fish with firm texture and mild, yet excellent flavour. Here’s a salute: a recipe of charm, heat and high colour.

‘Oh, give me a cup of that marvellous stuff’, goes the song. Without it nothing – not even this story – would get written on time …

This began as ‘nursery food’ designed to motivate picky eaters. Today, it is a non-age-specific staple in our family, giving new life to potatoes and their poor relations, sweet potatoes.