Discussions focused on how European regulations and corporate sustainability frameworks are increasingly influencing how mohair is assessed and traded within global textile supply chains.
Speaking at the event, Mohair South Africa General Manager Marco Coetzee said the textile industry is under significant environmental scrutiny.
“The textile industry is the second-largest contributor to greenhouse gas emissions in the world,” he noted.
He explained that the European Green Deal is a key driver of regulatory change, with binding climate targets shaping industry requirements.
“The Green Deal aims to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by [at least 50%] by 2030 and achieve carbon neutrality by 2050.”
He added that this has resulted in stricter reporting and sustainability requirements across textile value chains.
Life cycle assessments guide sourcing decisions
Coetzee said life cycle assessments are now widely used to measure environmental impact across production systems, influencing global brands’ procurement decisions.
He added that companies are increasingly required to set and disclose science-based climate targets.
“Trading companies now have climate-based or science-based targets that are publicly reported and monitored annually.”
Sourcing strategies are also shifting towards material substitution and improved supply chain transparency: “Companies either replace materials with lower environmental impact, reduce consumption, or improve sourcing transparency by working closely with the value chain,” he said.
Coetzee also referenced updated South African mohair studies conducted with international partners and aligned with Textile Exchange methodologies.
He explained that more recent results indicate improved environmental performance compared with earlier assessments, although differences in methodology continue to influence fibre comparisons.
Biogenic carbon shaping future standards
He said that emerging frameworks such as ISO 14067, which include biogenic carbon accounting in emissions measurement, are expected to refine how natural fibres are assessed by recognising the role of carbon cycling through biological systems.
“The carbon is taken into the ground by plants and trees, and it cycles back into the atmosphere through natural processes,” he explained.
He added that further research using direct emissions measurements is expected to strengthen South African data.
Producers face rising animal welfare scrutiny
Mohair industry veterinarian Dr Mackie Hobson said animal welfare compliance has become central to maintaining market access.
“It is absolutely critical, because it is essential to understand what is happening on farms and ensure practices are correct,” he explained.
Hobson said animal welfare campaigns have placed greater pressure on the industry, particularly where farms become targets due to visibility and industry size. He added that the level of scrutiny increases significantly when incidents are investigated, with multiple audits and verification layers often following.
