There’s a fresh breeze moving through the local mohair industry. The coming International Year of the Natural Fibre will see an Mohair Summit in the Karoo and the release of the growers’ all-inclusive code of conduct.
These events are likely to make an impact on end users and consumers who see environmentally-friendly, ethically-produced natural goods as “must-have” products. The appointment of live wire Jackie Gant as Mohair South Africa’s first dedicated marketing and promotions manager is set to inject new direction and enthusiasm into the industry, which has at times crippled itself with infighting, a reluctance to recognise the bigger picture, and very little marketing expertise. The result has been a steady decline in mohair growers, goats, and fibre output, although the clip has followed market demands and become much finer.
Today the top echelons of the mohair fraternity are seen by many farmers as a private club. This is particularly evident at Action Angora’s annual flock competition and prize-giving showcases. Aimed at promoting the Angora goat and its products, these gatherings tend to attract only a smattering of enthusiasts – definitely not the kind of turnout that should be associated with one of the country’s most remarkable farming assets. Perhaps there’s been too much focus on the production side and trying to keep the Eastern Cape’s smallstock farmers in the fold even when the market hits rock bottom – something that happens too often in this boom-and-bust industry.
Commitment to standards
On the other hand, there has always been a small band of committed growers whose ability to think on their feet helped them survive the bad times and come out stronger afterwards. The Angora Goat Breeders’ Association’s code of best practice is an example of this farsightedness. According to Gerhard Grobler, who heads the project, the association is intent on tying the whole value chain to the code. “As shown by the furore over Australia’s mulesing, it’s not only producers who are affected by demands for environmentally-friendly and ethical practices. whole industry can suffer as a result of green pressure. That’s why we’re also talking to animal rights activists and organisations such as the SPCA.
“Angora goats, of course, don’t need mulesing, their tails don’t need docking. Karoo goats in particular are about as chemically free as you can get under today’s farming conditions. Even our local processing industry assures us the chemicals they use don’t damage the ecology. We’d like to unveil the code during the mohair summit next year.” The summit programme will focus on gaining as much mileage as possible out of the Year of the Natural Fibre. Important international roleplayers, including the media, will be invited to a symposium, exhibitions and workshops to be held right in the arid Angora farming districts such as Jansenville and Graaff-Reinet.
With global mohair production down to under 6 million kilograms a year, it’s clearly time to look further than the farm fence and show the world what mohair can offer.
The market and the value chain. Denys Hobson, CEO of Cape Mohair Pty Ltd, says supply is critical. “As manufacturers, we’re lucky to have the world’s only two remaining large mohair processors on our doorstep, Gubb & Inggs in Uitenhage and Border Combing near East London. But you need a certain volume to run a plant.”
Further along the pipeline supply is less critical to spinners and weavers, who can switch to other fibres if mohair gets difficult to find. There are smaller processors in the UK and South America but, Hobson warns, a new processor starting up in China could kill local processing. Angora stalwarts insist their goat is still the most profitable small-stock breed. However, while fine kids’ hair has hit record levels of more than R400/kg, adult types have slipped to a disappointing average of R52/kg, barely above the reserve price. Studies show it can cost up to R40/kg to grow a fleece.
Those who’ve scaled down on the goat component of their enterprises, or switched to wool, mutton or game, argue they can’t be expected to grow more mohair if they’re not convinced it’s worth the risk and effort. They prefer not to depend on the whims of Europe’s fashion designers for their money.
The mohair message
Jackie Gant emphatically believes you can’t sell more mohair if you don’t create awareness about it, and that it’s up to the primary industry to help create demand for its products. “Marketing, like charity, the emphasis should be on selling more mohair end products at home. But how do you promote mohair to international users and tourists if South Africans, including the farmers who grow the fibre, aren’t enthusiastic enough about their product to wear mohair suits or socks or sleep under mohair blankets themselves?
“This country has been by far the world’s biggest producer of this fibre for a very long time. Mohair can be seen as a truly unique, natural South African product. We can do for our mohair what the Aussies have done for their wool. Nelson Mandela Bay, which receives, processes and exports more than half of the world’s total clip, can easily qualify as the international mohair capital, yet very little has been done to promote it as such.”
Imagine the value to business if tourists arriving in Port Elizabeth could buy a selection of quality mohair goods bearing the “Mohair Capital” logo. Jackie adds that it’s essential to support local mohair manufacturers. “PureCape, Uitenhage, has the biggest mohair blanket factory in the world and there are several new products on the market, including socks for diabetics.” (See box: Diabetic socks)
Sustainable benefits
Mohair also offers opportunities for job creation in the craft sector, which is likely to expand. Also on the table is the concept of the Mohair Meander, a tourism route being opened to link Angora farming districts in the Eastern and Western Cape to established tourist destinations such as the Addo Elephant Park and Baviaanskloof Wilderness. Eventually, muses Jackie, there could even be mohair boutique farms along these routes.
Not everyone is enthusiastic about a mohair craft market. Some fear that inferior or even fake products could damage the genuine product’s reputation. Jackie disagrees. “These days most people try to produce good stuff,” she argues. “Instead of shooting down new entrants, let’s get them all on a list, encourage them, and help with quality control. We have to be positive and help the industry create and use every new opportunity.”
She’d also like growers to show more appreciation for the annual prestigious Zegna, Miyuki and Daidoh clip awards, which seem to be won year after year by the same studs. “These are great opportunities for farmers to raise their sights and improve their clips and classing. First prize doesn’t come easily – a lot of hard work and dedication goes into competing and doing well.
“That alone is a marketable factor, because it goes a long way to making quality mohair a sought-after fibre among sophisticated shoppers. There’s something unique and special about a luxury product produced by nurturing a flock of Angoras under totally natural conditions. It’s like estate wine.”
Mohair on the world stage
When it comes to international promotion, Mohair SA simply doesn’t have the advertising revenue to match the world’s big clothing manufacturers. “For us, it’s more a matter of creating awareness, reintroducing the fibre to old users, and telling a new generation of consumers about its stylish, lightweight, durable and versatile comfort,” says Jackie. “We want to get closer to the spinners and weavers and join forces with processors, manufacturers and other international players to convey the mohair message to consumers. We can network and facilitate new deals in several untapped markets, including the Middle East, US and China. While China buys processed mohair from us, it doesn’t sell much finished product domestically. “Certainly, there’s scope for creating more uses for every micron category, from soft ladies wear to curtains, carpets and upholstery.”
Back on the farm, growers are looking to a project aimed at finding the best genetic material for lifelong, economical production for each type of Angora enterprise. This could eventually include importing hardier genetic material from Turkey. A reliable, formal market for Angora goat meat would also do much to stabilise the industry. Although it has a smaller carcass than the Boer goat, the Angora has the same taste and health qualities.
Contact Jackie Gant on (041) 487 1386 or 082 555 6222, or e-mail [email protected]. |fw
