Sussex in the United Kingdom is a magnet for South Africans abroad and our continuing contribution to winemaking.
Barry Anderson, MD of United Kingdom’s Leonardslee Wine Estate, at Mannings Heath close to Horsham, discusses building brands across two continents, the unique challenges of English viticulture, and why OBE Penny Streeter’s vision has created something truly special in West Sussex.
Farmer’s Weekly met Barry Anderson at Leonardslee Wine Estate on a rare sunny December day on what he calls a ‘unicorn day’ in the English wine calendar.
“During the 2024 vintage, we had no more than six days without rain, he says, setting the scene for just how different viticulture is here compared to his South African roots.
Anderson’s journey to this West Sussex estate began in the Bot River valley.
“I was involved in starting two wine farms back in South Africa: first Wildekraans and then Gabriel’s Kloof, both in Bot River. I was there for 25 years, turning those wheat lands into vineyards.”
The connection to England came through Penny Streeter, owner of Benguela Cove in Bot River.
“I was offered another job over in the UK, came across, turned the job down, and Penny got wind of it – such a small world, isn’t it? She said: ‘We need to chat at some point’,’and that was the start of my journey here,” says Anderson.
A different canvas
For Anderson, the move wasn’t just professional, it was also about broader horizons for his two daughters. “I was keen to just give them a wider exposure in life. My eldest has done her veterinary nursing here, and the youngest is doing an engineering apprenticeship. The opportunities for them have been unbelievable. We also wanted to travel more which being based here makes easier.”
But the farming presented an entirely new challenge.
“In South Africa, you’re looking for nice cool little pockets and cool slopes to make great wine. Here, you’re looking for the warmest possible sites,” he explains. “There you’re looking for areas with good airflow to cool the site down. Here you’re looking for wind-free areas. Everything is reversed.”
The fertility of English soil astonishes him. “If I planted a vine upside down, I think it would grow. In South Africa, we put in cover crops but could never have permanent ones because of lack of water. Here, it’s making sure we have got good drainage and can get water out of the soil rather than leaving it in.”
Disease pressure and daylight hours
The pest management strategy differs dramatically too. “In South Africa, insects could be a problem, especially things like mealybug. Here, we don’t spray any insecticides. We don’t need to. But we have much higher pressure when it comes to fungal diseases like downy and powdery mildew.”
Perhaps the biggest challenge is light. “The daylight hours for 2024 were absolutely horrendous. You’re trying to ripen buds and ensure they are fruitful for the following season. Your canopy management needs to open up those vines quite early on to get airflow in, reduce disease risk, and just get light in there,” adds Anderson.
The Leonardslee vision
Penny Streeter bought Mannings Heath Golf Club in 2016, specifically to establish an English vineyard after purchasing Benguela Cove.
“Streeter bought this to originally sell Benguela Cove wines, and then as a place where she could plant her English vineyard,” explains Anderson.
Benguela Cove’s cellar master, Johann Fourie, makes all the wines in South Africa and in the UK and works very closely with Anderson. The property now encompasses 548 acres with two golf courses and 38 acres of vines. Three miles down the Brighton Road sits Leonardslee Lakes and Gardens, 240 acres of historic gardens with a Michelin-star restaurant, Interlude, run by Jean Delport, originally from Benguela Cove.
“We market it as one group,” says Anderson. “Wine is at the pinnacle; It is the reason Penny bought these places in the first place. But you need multiple revenue streams to really make these businesses work.”
The gardens themselves have a remarkable history. Sir Edmund Loder, who made his fortune importing tallow oil during the war, spent his life travelling the world collecting plants and animals.
“He was one of the wealthiest men in England and spent his money establishing these beautiful gardens,” recounts Anderson. “The wallabies are famous – the have been there for over 100 years.”
When Streeter discovered the property was for sale, “true to Penny’s adventurous spirit, she jumped over the fence and went snooping around. She came into this beautiful, literally untouched secret garden – overgrown paths, the mansion house leaking. But she fell in love with it.”
What followed was “the biggest renovation project in any gardens in the last 100 years. “For two years, they just cleared and renovated to get it back open to the public.” The gardens opened on 1 April 2019; the same month Anderson joined the team.
Competing with Champagne
Leonardslee Family Vineyards grows Chardonnay (60% of production), Pinot Noir (30%), and Pinot Meunier (10%). “We are competing on a level playing field with Champagne – that’s not blowing smoke,” Anderson insists. “That’s where we position ourselves, on price point and certainly on quality.”
The wines retail at £38 (around R828) for the Brut Reserve Blanc and Rosé, and £55 (around R1198) for the Blanc de Blancs. “We want to be as good, if not better, than Champagne. That’s the level of quality in the bottle.”
Even the French are taking notice.
“They’re buying up land left, right and centre at the moment because they have seen the results. They’re thinking 100 years on – where are we going to be?”
The estate’s label – featuring a swallow – tells Streeter’s story.
“The swallow migrates 10,000 miles (16 000km) every year between South Africa and the UK. We always see them as we’re picking the last grapes, heading back to Africa. As the vines start to bud in spring, we see them arriving back to nest. That’s Penny” explains Anderson.
Designer Will Parr incorporated four small swallows representing Streeter’s children, with colours taken from the bird’s plumage.
“We didn’t want a traditional label, a château stuck on the front. We wanted something left field, a bit different. A little bit of Penny.”
Awards and recognition
Just 18 months after launching the brand, the results are promising.
“We’ve done well in WineGB, where we won gold. We were awarded the Sustainability Award, which is quite true to my heart. The restaurant also won the Green Award.” Anderson is clear that sustainability isn’t superficial. “No greenwashing – it’s all real, genuine work working towards improving the properties for the future.”
The South African connection
The estate maintains strong links to South Africa, with several staff members having made the journey. Though recent immigration changes have made it more difficult, Anderson values these connections.
“There was a huge shortage of chefs in the UK, especially in hospitality. We were able to tap into great industry people from South Africa.” His own path through the ancestral visa route took five years before receiving indefinite leave to remain. “My daughter was 19-years-old when we came here, so she wasn’t seen as a dependent. She’s had to go through quite a process – three years of study, then a five-year work visa, which she is still going through,” says Anderson.
Looking ahead
For Anderson, the role combines his passions perfectly. “I love the creative side as much as I’m a farmer at heart. I also enjoy the development side – that’s what’s been fun, building destinations from wheat land.”
Farmer’s Weekly saw the spectacular winter light show at Leonardslee Lakes and Gardens which draws 70 000 to 80 000 visitors in December alone – all potential wine customers.
“That’s why we do this. It is footfall and customer engagement across the properties. Your best returns in the wine industry are direct to the consumer. We want to build that consumer base within our properties.”
As the conversation winds down on this rare sunny afternoon, Anderson reflects on the journey.
“It’s been an absolute joy to work with Penny on this project and her family. Penny does not do things in small scale. She likes to get things done properly and done quickly. Once she’s made up her mind, you’ve got to get on with it.”
He pauses, looking out over the estate. “What a journey it’s been. Extreme, but unbelievable.”
For more information, visit leonardsleegardens.co.uk.
