For coffee maniacs like me, the search for the perfect cup of coffee is an ongoing quest, filled with the restlessness of a perfectionist running on far too much caffeine. For some time now, I have enjoyed the coffee wisdom of Peter Winter, a man who regularly visits Ethiopia where he buys single-cultivar coffee beans by the container-load. Having long ago reached the point of grinding my own beans immediately prior to the coffee-making process, I felt that there was still something more I could do, short of growing the beans myself. The answer is: do-it-yourself roasting, an adventure you can share just by reading this …
Industrial coffee roasters are giant roaring beasts running on gas or electricity, while a rotating arm keeps the beans moving. Sometimes there’s a technician keeping an eye on things, while in bigger factories a computer does the job. But in Ethiopia, the place that invented coffee, the local people have a simpler approach. “They light a quick fire in a simple three-stone hearth,” says Peter Winter. “A flat pan sits on the flames and a handful or two of green beans are chucked in. They’re rattled around a bit to shake them into different positions and as soon as they’re dark enough, the roasting business is over. quick session with a mortar and pestle and the grounds are ready for boiling water. It’s simple, man,” he tells me. “I sometimes roast my own beans on the Weber after a braai.” nspired by all this technical stuff and crazy-keen to improve my already damn fine coffee-making, get a kilo or two of green beans from my mate Peter. Being a cautious man, check out the Internet and find all sorts of interesting data, not to mention shiny home roasters available in America. All you need is a credit card and they’re yours.
But the low-tech Ethiopian way is good enough for this conservative African cook. Not having a fire on demand in my kitchen, used the stove. Since Eskom was switched on that day, this was no problem. chose a heavy-bottomed stainless steel frying pan, poured in a handful of green coffee beans and revved the plate up to the red line. Research warned me of three gradual changes, known as first crack, second crack and oil. First crack is highly audible as latent liquids boil in the bean. Second crack comes a moment or two later as the oils partially vaporise. Those that don’t, ooze onto the outside of the bean, giving it a shiny glow. The degree of roasting is indicated by the darkness of the final product. Be warned that the change from dark roast to carbonised burnt offering can be startlingly quick. T hat’s it! Let them cool then grind them up in the processor of your choice. Coffee just doesn’t get fresher and more aromatic than this. – David Basckin
