Photo: Brian Berkman
Anna Russell, the Duchess of Bedford, was the first to formalise what so many people now around the world enjoy as Afternoon Tea. She needed a pick-me-up between lunch and dinner and Afternoon Tea was it.
Although nowadays the terms Afternoon Tea and High Tea are used interchangeably to mean a lavish afternoon spread of scones, finger sandwiches and cakes accompanied by tea to drink, this wasn’t always the case.
High Tea, or simply Tea, was something quite different and more akin to an early supper at the end of a hard day’s labour and taken at a high table while sitting on high chairs, in other words, at a dining or kitchen table.
What’s in a name?
There is another nomenclature, which speakers of American English use. For example, there is a significant difference between an American biscuit and an English one.
The English consider scones, and round ones at that, what the Americans call a biscuit, which they often serve cut into triangles. What the Americans call a cookie the English might term a biscuit.
Even within England, enjoying a Cream Tea (tea, scones, clotted cream and jam) can be different. While the ingredients are the same, the order in which they are placed is different.
The Cornish prefer the cream placed on the halved scone first and then topped with jam. In nearby Devon, they put the jam on the halved scone first and only then the cream.
Clotted cream may also cause some confusion: while it looks like soft butter in colour and texture, it is cream that has 55% fat, which is more than butter or regular cream.
Clotted cream is made by boiling or baking the cream first to evaporate the water content.
Adding raisins, currants or sultanas (all dried grapes but from different varieties) to the scone dough before baking is entirely a matter of personal preference.
However, serving grated cheese with scones, cream and jam appears to be something we do in South Africa alone, sometimes even along with Marmite butter and biltong-dusted cream cheese.
A change of ownership
A grand hotel is the perfect place for Afternoon Tea and none is grander than the Mount Nelson, a Belmond hotel, at the foot of Table Mountain in Cape Town.
Since the name change from Orient-Express Hotels to Belmond, the company has been purchased by LVMH, the luxury French house of Louis Vuitton, Moët and Hennessy.
The Mount Nelson has since been undergoing extensive refurbishment and improvements.
The terrace that overlooks the hotel’s famous fountain and glorious gardens has glamorous new two-tone crenelated sun parasols and matching comfy cushions for the cane armchairs.
Tea sommelier Craig Cupido, is, the hotel says, their only formally trained tea expert and able to recommend the best tea to accompany your selection of sweet and savoury scones, pastries and cakes, all under the watchful eye of pastry chef Vicky Gurovich.
Coffee lovers won’t miss out either as head barista Jeighman Zarira offers the full range of coffee beverages, including syphon and tableside pour-over coffee.
Sommelier’s choice iced tea or L’Ormarins Cap Classique is offered or, if you have selected the Champagne supplement, a glass of Moët & Chandon.
Three cheers for three tiers
A three-tiered tea stand is brought to the table for two people to share.
On it are, among other treats, cucumber sandwiches, assorted savoury canapés (the gazpacho soup in a shot glass was intensively flavoured and brimming with freshness), scones with trimmings, and duck in a flaky-pastry bite.
The sweet selection looks like an emperor’s jewel box and tastes even more impressive.
There is more than enough served to the table for even the hungry to be sated.
However, for those with extra capacity, and in a nod to how the hotel served its buffet afternoon tea previously, head inside the lounge to the grand Windsor Table and enjoy a slice or three of cake: cheese, chocolate and strawberry were offered in February.
Chef Vicky says: “All fresh ingredients are fair game,” so you may find something different offered on the tea menu when you visit.
Not a dog’s breakfast
Although the Mount Nelson was a few years behind The Marine Hotel in Hermanus and the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa in welcoming pets and providing special pet menus, now that it welcomes our furry friends it has entirely surpassed the competition.
When ordering the Dog Afternoon Tea, a R250 add-on for your pet includes bottled water that has been decanted into elegantly designed ceramic bowls served on a cork mat followed by a multi-course tasting menu.
The Dog Afternoon Tea also begins with cucumber sandwiches and ends with bone-shaped peanut butter biscuits. Beef consommé jelly, rare roast beef and marrow, braised pig’s ear and carrot and rare roasted beef and savoury rice are all served.
The hotel says cats are welcome too, but you would have to check with them for more rare species.
Take a gander around the hotel gardens and look around inside too to see the current art selection from the Norval Collection. Other innovations include the recently appointed new executive chef, George Jardine, and interior changes to The Planet Bar.
The Lord Nelson Room, just off the lounge, again has that wonderful gentlemen’s clubby vibe.
Around the main swimming pool, near the Oasis restaurant, is an elegant timber pool cabana. In a couple of seasons the entry to the walkway pergola will be fully festooned with blossoming flowers and greenery.
Afternoon Tea is served between 12 noon and 3pm from Wednesday to Sunday. The cost is R550/adult, R350/child under 12, and R250/dog. Make bookings in advance at Belmond.com. Reservations for the Dog Afternoon Tea have to be made by telephone on 021 483 1000.
