In the year since Farmer’s Weekly last visited the Garden Route National Park’s Wilderness Section Ebb-and-Flow Rest Camp, many improvements have been made.

The main reception building has been rethatched, while each Forest Cabin has had a small yet meaningful adjustment to include the fridge inside the cabin (it was previously on the balcony) and with the addition of a cold-water sink outside near the braai area.

These changes enhance the experience of staying there significantly, as dirty dishes can now be washed in the cabin (getting hot water from the kettle) instead of the scullery area on the opposite side of the lawns.

Cabin accommodation

While basic, these log cabin accommodations come in two- and four-bed configurations, have en suite bathrooms, and are adequate and clean. They are raised off the grass and offer wonderful views from their balconies over the Touws River and the mountains beyond.

Bird life is especially rich in the area, with waterbirds and many others nesting nearby. The red flash of the Knysna turaco’s (lourie) underparts is always dramatic, and they are frequently seen in the area and even in the trees directly above the cabins.

Drongos, ring-necked doves, orioles and Cape yellow weavers are plentiful. Hearing the call of the fish eagle is not uncommon, and five species of kingfisher can also be spotted.

For South Africans, and especially those above 60 years of age, accommodation in the rest camp cabins is extremely reasonable at up to R1 290 for two people per night. Campsites are even more reasonably priced from R402 for up to six people.

These prices were to be increased at the end of October, but South African National Parks has yet to release the 2025 prices.

Bring-your-own motorhome

Ebb-and-Flow is also an ideal spot to set up a motorhome. Friends of mine, Cape Town artist Sulette van der Merwe and photographer Johann Lourens, stayed in a Travelstar Navi two-sleeper motorhome on a campsite adjacent to the river.

Built on a Toyota chassis cab, it has a double bed, toilet, two cooking areas, an outside shower and a 60ℓ water tank. Mostly intended for use while connected to a mains power supply, which is always on at Ebb-and-Flow thanks to large generators, the motorhome can also operate on gas and battery backup.

It comes with a flushing toilet and hand basin, two 102Ah batteries, 3kg gas bottle, as well as a gas and 220V hot-water geyser. Its top-opening 40ℓ fridge/freezer is handy, too.

The external slide-out kitchen unit has a sink and a two-burner stove, while electrical points throughout make the use of a separately purchased induction plate and an air fryer and microwave a pleasure. The roof of the unit expands, making it comfortable to stand in and allowing ventilation.

A separately purchased Oztrail gazebo and comfortable Oztrail Coolum five-position reclining chairs, ground sheet and collapsible tables completed their unit.

One drawback they reported was that the motorhome has to be fully packed up and everything secured before driving off, which makes a quick dash into Wilderness or, indeed, the amazing Wild Oats Community Farmers’ Market on Saturday mornings in Sedgefield a bit of a time-consuming practice. And given the weight of the vehicle, diesel costs are almost double that of a regular car.

Kayaking and walking

People who bring their own kayaks to Ebb-and-Flow need to purchase a permit to use them on the Touws and Serpentine rivers, but kayaks are also available to rent.

Island Lake Holiday Resort is a short vehicle drive away from Ebb-and-Flow and some people put their kayaks in there and paddle down towards Ebb-and-Flow. Such an arrangement requires two vehicles, but it makes for a more relaxing paddle.

Sometimes, as was the case this October, the water-flow rate is so fast that passing against the current through a narrow section of the winding river, called the sphincter, is difficult and sometimes impossible.

As a preventative measure to avoid flooding after torrential rains in September, the Touws River was opened to the sea at Wilderness Beach. This meant that, in parts, the river was very shallow and kayaks scraped their bottoms on the pebbly riverbed and, at other times, ran aground.

Many walking routes form part of the Garden Route National Park. The most well-known and popular is the Half-Collared Kingfisher Trail. This is a beautiful, mostly forested route that follows the Touws River to the waterfall.

Others, all named after kingfishers, are within relative proximity. It is about a 10km round trip on foot from Ebb-and-Flow to the waterfall on the Half-Collared Trail and much of it is relatively flat. There are some ascents, but steps and well-maintained decking make it only moderately challenging.

Eating out

Dining at the casually sophisticated Ilali restaurant in Wilderness village is always a pleasure and is highly recommended. They offer a wide range of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options, in addition to the typical pizza-pasta fare.

Joplins Steak Bar is rightly famous for its steaks, which all come with garlic butter and a fried egg, chips or a salad. The mixed grill (boerewors, sirloin steak, lamb chops) is delicious. Milk tart liqueur is offered on the house to end the meal.

The Wilderness Hotel, just 3,6km from Ebb-and-Flow, has an excellent and well-priced spa.
Facilities include a gym, pool, sauna, steam and spa rooms with bathrooms for couples’ treatments.
Another significant Wilderness improvement since Farmer’s Weekly’s last visit is a new and impressive Spar.

Visit sanparks.org/parks/garden-route, phone Travelstar on 044 382 1516, or visit travelstar.co.za.